The Season 2022
OUR FIRST STAY
After the lost season 2021 we hoped for a good season 2022
During winter and spring I had monitored and kept trying to direct the delayed repair project; I visited the yard several times. By end of May the works should finally have been completed and the launch arranged. We booked flights to Split on June 5th to be ready for the launch on the following day. We were aware that further days at Marina Kastela would be required to finalise works and tests in the water, before we would be able to fully use the boat and go out. I had booked an apartment with aircon and a terrace, and a rental car for six days.
Unfortunately that plan didn't work out. When we arrived the boat was in the yard with still technical and quality issues to sort, and there was an unpleasant dispute with the yard owner regarding open issues and reserves, that I had to resolve before the boat would be released. The transport to the marina had not been arranged, getting this done should prove another hurdle and causing unnecessary stress. It needed coordination between the yard, the marina and even the police as the road had to be closed shortly to allow the yacht trolley to pass; it should be done in the night. There was a lot else to sort out for me on the boat after the long works, I had to be at the yard every day whilst Jane had to look after herself.
The mid June weather was getting boiling hot; we were at a sort of holiday place, in Kastel Gomiliza, close to the yard and next to Marina Kastela, a "godly" village like all those in Croatia, with frequent loud church bells in the vicinity, but certainly not a place we would have chosen for a stay under normal circumstances.
To distract from the yard troubles and get some kind of holiday vibes, we went to a pleasant small beach bar nearby, visited Fort Kastilac at the village, a 16th century fort with picturesque tower surrounded by the sea, and also Kastel Stari where I had stayed a few times on my inspection visits during the repair project. The "Kastelas" (castles) are a chain of 7 former seaside fortifications in the bay of Split between the airport and Split town. Today they are low key holiday villages and handy for those who want to stay a few a days near the airport and with easy access to Split town. They are pleasant enough to the tourist, have old village centres, no high rising blocks, but located in a built-up area and not comparable, for holiday purposes, to coastal resort villages further away and on islands.
The over-night boat transport to the marina by road on a yacht trolley got finally arranged, height restrictions had be accommodated too.
The splash happened on June 18th, assisted by the yard team. All were relieved, and Tarilian was berthed at Kastela for the next days. After the difficulties with the unhelpful marina management team to get Tarilian's transport coordinated, my feelings towards this marina were a bit soured. But we were happy having dinners at the excellent and elegant marina restaurant Spinnaker.
Further information about the repair and refit project is on the Tarilian page, works of 2021 - 2023
On June 21 a sea trial with the Volvo engineer in the Split bay was conducted successfully; on the 23rd we finally left for marina Frapa, who had held our berth for us.
At first we found it upsetting to return to the same berth where the fire incident had happened, but realized that holding "our" berth for us throughout the time was meant to be the marina's token of loyalty and helpfulness.
After the stressful days in Kastela we relaxed for a few days in our old marina and enjoyed the amenities Rogoniza has to offer, before travelling back to London at the begin of July when even hotter weather was likely.
I returned to boat in August on my own for a check and an important meeting with an insurance surveyor from Spain who had been called to inspect the quality issues with the finish of the flybridge left after the previous works.
OUR SECOND STAY
Our late Croatia stay started with a flight from Gatwick to Split on 4th Sept., we arrived at the boat at 20:15 and had dinner at Ancora.
The weather at the start was pleasant enough, After a couple of days setting the boat up and sorting all, we set out on Sept 7th for a short day trip to nearby Stari Trogir cove to anchor
Wet and stormy weather followed during the next days. It kept us in the marina for about 10 days.
After the low pressure systems had passing we went out on the 18th towards Zlarin. Nice day but cool, day max only 22 C.
Anchored for lunch between islands east of Zlarin, by Krbela Vela. A beautiful setting but without protection only suitable in good weather.
Then went on to Zlarin hoping to be able to berth alongside while waiting for the harbour master who used to arrive around 16:00.
There were already many yachts so berthing alongside was no option; but there was a lady from a Seafarers flotilla who helped boats moor up. I went stern-to on N side of pier, she helped with land lines - though not throwing properly - and handed me a mooring. Cross wind from W. So far so good, land lines attached, mooring on board, but the boat was driven sideways by the wind, I needed to use engines and thrusters to keep it in position.
To attach the mooring I had to leave the helm so boat was gradually pushed backward into the quay with the dinghy getting abused as "fender".
The mooring line I had been handed turned out to be too short, it stretched hard but I was not able to get it up enough to fix it to the bow cleat. There is only one mooring line per yacht in a harbour like Zlarin when it's getting busy.
I was told by an onlooker that my mooring "must have got stuck under my boat." I had not engaged engines since the line had been taken up, so felt it was unlikely that it got caught in a prop. With the side wind, this was an awkward situation with no help.
Decided to move the boat sideways with thrusters as much as possible, let the mooring go, get on the passarella and quickly step on land to check the line: It was not stuck under the boat but its hauling line was desperately too short. I detached it from the ring on the quay and took it on board, at the same time trying to control the boat with thrusters..
Eventually I got the mooring fixed to the bow cleat, tightened lines, and moved the dinghy back on its chocks, apparently there was no damage done.
I never had to handle an awkward situation like this; it appears to have been caused by careless and ignorant crew who ripped the hauling line and, instead of replacing it, tied the short remainder back on the quay.
In the evening, wanted to have a meal at Konoba Aldura but were told they were booked out completely, no capacity to serve us until 2 hours later. Obviously, flotilla organizers now book out complete restaurants well ahead, which has never happened to us before at this restaurant. I remembered a second Konoba in the village further back from the pier. We ate at Konoba Ivana, who also had bookings from Seafarers but enough capacity to accommodate other customers. Traditional fare, full plates and value for money.
Night temp down to 15C.
We stayed in Zlarin for one more day. The NE wind picked up compared to the forecast but calmed in the evening. I had taken up a second mooring after the next boat had left.
Several Sunsail yachts berthed on the S pier, otherwise only few yachts. Zlarin seem to have become a popular with flotillas.
Watched coverage of QEII funeral on BBC TV. This time had pleasant dinner at Aldura.
A Bavaria motor yacht arrived late and berthed on the other side of the pier, blaring stereo at 21:30. I approached the skipper and told him they were disturbing us. Was told they would be leaving for a restaurant shortly.
The light Bora weather continuous, on the 20th we make the journey back to our home berth. At first on the way we go to nearby Zmajan and anchor in Zarzanj cove protected from NE wind, but find too many wasps, so lift anchor soon. Tour Vela Nozda cove with its field of buoys. It is, in my view, an indentation of the South coast of Kaprije, not a protected cove, and open to the South and East. Go on to anchor at 9 meters for lunch close to East of Mala Krbela, near to where we anchored on the way to Zlarin.
Lift anchor after 15:00, light W-SW, and arrive at Marina Frapa around 16:30. A pleasant day.
On Sept 22 we went out towards Solta / Brac, expecting that it would be easy to find a berth on either of the islands at this time in the season. Anchored Krknjas bay for lunch and checked for a berth, but had to find that all marinas in Milna, as well as Maslinica, were completely reserved. No answer from Stomorska, so probably full too. Flotillas everywhere, for example "Mirno More" with more than 58 yachts! Not being in a mood to explore further I decided to call it a day cruise and return to Frapa. Westerlies raising choppy seas en route.
In the following days the weather deteriorated again, from the 24 to 26th we had Jugo with some hefty downpours and thunderstorms.
By Sept 27th the weather had calmed enough so went out for a final day trip in the season: Did a tour of our "local" lighthouse Mulo, then anchored in Stari Trogir bay for lunch and a good swim, water temperature still 23 deg C. Return to Frapa in light winds around 16:30
Flying back to the UK on the 29th.
IN SUMMARY. our 2022 cruising season had remained well below our hopes. The first trip was cIut short by the delayed launch with stressful experiences, the second trip suffered from prolonged inclement weather in September.
The boating season was now over, but not the year 2022. It should end on a high note.
The surveyor who had attended in August approved further cosmetic work; I was asked to find a competent firm in Croatia; their quote was approved. On 28th November, I took Tarilian from Frapa to Marina Dalmacija at Sukosan (Zadar). She was lifted and stored ashore for works by highly recommended specialist yacht refitter Nautimar. I had instructed them to carry out a re-finishing and painting program of the flybridge and superstructure, and further work over the winter.
I was lucky to have clear calm weather making it a coolish but quite pleasant transfer journey.
Only 27 engine hours done in 2022.
